Food Picks
Nourishing modern Asian fare at Yara
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Yara in Evans Road is run by the same team behind steakhouse Meadesmoore.
PHOTO: YARA
SINGAPORE – Yara, with its stripped-down, Goop-approved walls, nondescript taupe upholstery and tasteful greenery, is a space that yearns palpably, almost desperately, for serenity.
The modern Asian restaurant, which opened in September, is after all situated within The Initial Sama, a wellness-centric serviced residence tucked away, for maximum wellness, in a quiet road just outside the Singapore Botanic Gardens. I am told by a member of staff that the offerings at Yara are meant to complement the gentle rhythms of the mindful lifestyle cultivated here.
Initially, that was some cause for concern. Wellness does not always mean well-fed, and forgettable soups and under-seasoned produce spring apprehensively to mind.
Thankfully, Yara embraces a bolder version of wellness, one that does not shy away from strong flavours or pick mousily at a few pre-approved ingredients. Its salads have real character – the Haricot Vert “Kerabu” ($18++), for instance, blooms with prickling heat and tantalising funk from its fermented chilli dressing.
Slightly more sinful is the Breaded Muar Otah ($18++), served with pickled cucumber and coconut mayo. Silky, crisp and unapologetically flavourful, it is utterly addictive.
Even the Yu-Tang Clam Bowl ($24++) – one of the menu’s lighter items – confidently bats away any fears of savoury restraint. Here is a genuinely hearty bowl of noodles, perfumed with garlic and adorned with fresh, bouncy slices of balai threadfin and plump flower clams.
Fish is something of a highlight at Yara, and the grilled fish of the day (market price) is a convincing demonstration of the kitchen’s piscine prowess.
Lightly charred over charcoal embers, my Mozambique kurper retains its pearly succulence while shrugging on a fine coat of smoky fragrance. It is served butterflied, one side slathered in sambal ijo and the other in sambal matah – punchy, aromatic blends that deftly elevate the dish.
Like Meadesmoore, a steakhouse run by the same team – Eleven Seventeen Capital – this restaurant grills a mean steak (from $45++ for a 220g Altair Grass-Fed Wagyu MS3/4 Picanha). It does not quite boast the same variety of cuts as the Boon Tat Street restaurant, but sets itself apart with a perky chimichurri made from spring onion and coriander.
Dessert takes inspiration from classics both regional and farther afield. If sticking to the South-east Asian tenor of the meal, try the Chilled “Kueh Talam” Pudding ($10++), cloud-like and elegant.
Where: 26 Evans Road yara.com.sg
MRT: Botanic Gardens/Stevens
Open: 11am to 3pm, Thursdays to Tuesdays; 5 to 10pm, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays; 5 to 11pm, Fridays and Saturdays; closed on Wednesdays
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